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Throttle Body Mod and Cleaning

37K views 79 replies 8 participants last post by  komarovdv42 
#1 ·
Well, I decided to do a bit of cleaning on the throttle body and upper intake yesterday. I was able to clean out all of the carbon build up from the throttle body and i got some cleaned from the upper intake before I ran out of cleaner. I also decided to work on the throttle body. Its very small but the screws that hold the throttle plate to the throttle pin has those screws that stick out quite a bit. I got to thinking... I wonder how much that make the incoming air turbulant which would hinder high flow and compression of air. It may be next to nothing at all but i went ahead and shaved off the excess... heres the pics of after i finished the work and mod...

Everything taken off...


Upper intake needs a lot more work!


Throttle body after the screws have been shaven down...

 
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#3 ·
Thanks man! I think it is a tad bit smoother on the reving up of rpms now. Im just hoping that all of these little things will add up to better fuel economy or performance further down the road. I plan to do a little more shaving on the throttle pin to get every little bit of air into the upper intake without restriction!
 
#5 ·
I've never done nor seen like that. Makes sense, now what about grinding on the shaft, or would that weaken it too much? And were the screws staked in place, might want to keep an eye on it for a while in case it wants to back off. I say thumbs up.
Richard
 
#6 ·
crazy we used to do that to carbs we ran on the dirt tracks that touch more over the next guy coming out of the corners two thumbs up and e for effort. LOCK TIGHT is your freind in this case
 
#7 ·
sloue said:
crazy we used to do that to carbs we ran on the dirt tracks that touch more over the next guy coming out of the corners two thumbs up and e for effort. LOCK TIGHT is your freind in this case
Yep, should of mentioned lock tight, good call sloue
Richard
 
#10 ·
Well ya know after I did that I actually tried to take the screws out and they will not come out at all! Those suckers are in there tight and they are not coming out unless you do damage to it all! I just grinded down on it all while it was still assembled. I had lock tight on standby but it dont need it since it wont come apart! LOL

alwaysFlOoReD said:
I've never done nor seen like that. Makes sense, now what about grinding on the shaft, or would that weaken it too much? And were the screws staked in place, might want to keep an eye on it for a while in case it wants to back off. I say thumbs up.
Richard
With the shaft this is what I plan... The black throttle pin is what I want to work on. On the side of the throttle plate where I shaved down the screws (the top of the plate in the picture) I want to cut out the part of the black pin located between the screws. But I only want to do it on the one side and between the screws. Ive done research and it will still be plenty strong enough if I do that and it will allow much more fast moving air through the area of the throttle body in which it moves the fastest.

So, what you guys think?
 
#11 ·
Personally I'd go for it. Do you have another one just in case? The only thing I can think of that might happen is vibration between plate and shaft. Kinda like a blade of grass between your thumbs and blowing across it. gtg
Richard
 
#12 ·
alwaysFlOoReD said:
Personally I'd go for it. Do you have another one just in case? The only thing I can think of that might happen is vibration between plate and shaft. Kinda like a blade of grass between your thumbs and blowing across it. gtg
Richard
I wont even try it until Saturday since its the next day I have off but ill probably head to the junkyard and get one off a junked 3.0. The way the plate rotates when in idle and throttling up the incoming air will push up on the cut part which will hold the plate against the intact side of the throttle pin. To be safe I can try to put liquid nail on the plate and intact side of the pin to ensure that it will not rattle or separate. You think that would be good?
 
#14 ·
haha, thanks man! I need to go back over all of it and work on it all. The blue tape needs work done to it.
 
#17 ·
??? liquid nail ??? no no no no if you put that any where near the motor of your truck i will personally come there and slap you with a wet noddle. thats for house not cars :D all joking a side i am with alwaysfloored i think you'll be good. you going to polish up the intake runners also . its a pain but if you take your time be real careful you can get a nice job that is noticeable in the seat
 
#18 ·
sloue said:
??? liquid nail ??? no no no no if you put that any where near the motor of your truck i will personally come there and slap you with a wet noddle. thats for house not cars :D all joking a side i am with alwaysfloored i think you'll be good. you going to polish up the intake runners also . its a pain but if you take your time be real careful you can get a nice job that is noticeable in the seat
lol... come slap me I dare you!!! LOL

polish the intake runners? the only thing is im not sure if I can. The 2003 3.0 V6 was the only 3.0 in the Ranger that ever used a Upper Intake Manifold that was composite material. Now does that mean that it is plastic on the outside and metal on the inside? If so then I guess I could do a polish of the runners. I probably just have to take the upper intake off and use a buffer head on a dremel tool right? Im open to all advise and tips on that cuz ive heard great things about polishing intakes!
 
#20 ·
really? I read somewhere it was only the 03. Well i wonder what years the composite is on now. Do you know if it is metal on the inside of the intake?
 
#24 ·
The upper intake manifold is composite not metal all throughout. Im guessing the composite meand that the black plastic on the outside is all the plastic it has and then the inside of it is metal.
 
#26 ·
well gerald said its in his 04 so it may be a few years of it. They put composite in it for lower costs and take extra weight off. Now I want to play around with it! lol
 
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